by Pat Goss
BUSTED or FLUSHED
Modern automatic transmissions can be traced back to 1904 when the Sturtevant brothers of Boston developed a clunky, inefficient, failure-prone centrifugal gearbox. An inauspicious beginning and nothing like today’s transmissions which shift smoothly, deliver great fuel economy and exceptional durability. However, the sophistication of today’s transmissions means repairing or replacing a broken one now costs more than a whole fleet of cars did back in 1904. Transmission repair or replacement can be mind-numbing expensive these days.
To complicate things long term financing may mean you owe more than your car is worth so you can’t afford to trade and another maxed-out credit line looms. Although repairs are expensive preventing them is cheap and makes the most sense. Maintenance used to mean dropping the transmission pan, replacing the filter and refilling with fluid. But that was a long time ago. Today proper service is very different because the old method can actually shorten rather than increase the life of today’s transmissions. That’s because the old method didn’t clean anything inside the transmission and it only replaced about a third of the fluid.
The old process leaves the transmission as dirty as it was before the process began and still filled with two thirds old oxidized fluid. Problem is, new fluid doesn’t always mix properly with the remaining old dirty fluid. Plus without any cleaning the new more-detergent fluid softens deposits allowing fine particles to circulate through the transmission causing wear. Some of the dirt particles are so small they pass right through a transmission filter if yours even has a filter as many now opt for a filter-screen instead.
Today, proper transmission service means flushing, which significantly extends transmission life. Unless you feel dirt and varnish is somehow beneficial to mechanical devices I suggest you flush your transmission. The first step in flushing is adding chemical cleaners followed by running the car to soften and dislodge all the oxidized varnish and dirt built up in the transmission, torque converter, cooler and cooling lines.
Then the car is connected to the transmission flush machine which captures and quarantines all the old fluid coming out of the transmission and sends fresh new fluid back into the transmission. In a transmission flush all the bad stuff is quarantined outside the car, while in the old method all the bad stuff stays in the transmission. Plus flushing replaces nearly 100% of the fluid where the old method only replaced 25% to 33% .
When it comes to the fluids in your car there is nothing more beneficial than cleanliness. So a flush should be done every two years or 24,000 miles never more than 30,000 miles. Also, contrary to what your dealer may have told you, there is no such thing as a fluid that lasts the life of the vehicle. Nothing lasts forever, all fluids wear out and when the fluid wears out the transmission soon follows. There is also no such thing as a completely sealed transmission, they can all be flushed with proper adapters.
Beware of shops that sell fluid exchanges and call them flushes. A fluid exchange is quick and highly profitable for the shop but a waste of your money. Fluid exchanges can be done in the service lane in about half an hour where a flush requires about an hour and a half. One way to be sure you’re getting the real deal is to look for a shop that uses BG products and equipment like I do. www.bgfindashop.com
I know the economy is tight, but avoiding preventive maintenance is truly a false savings. Metal doesn’t understand economics and if not kept properly lubricated fails. Fixing a broken car always costs a lot more than the service to prevent the failure. Also shop carefully as the bad economy means shops are desperate for dollars to survive and desperation sometimes pushes good people to do bad things.
© Copyright 06/21/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
SWEATY & STINKY
Your car’s air conditioner is busted, it’s ninety degrees, traffic is crawling, you’re sweaty, your clothes are wet and sticky and you stink; it really sucks. Sitting there sweating your ass off you probably don’t care that the most common air conditioner problem is refrigerant loss but it is. Refrigerant is what it is but Freon® is what most folks call it, which is wrong because Freon® is actually a DuPont trade name for a specific type of refrigerant. But no matter what you call it refrigerant leaks causing cold air to become cool air and cool air to become hot air! Myth exposed: No matter how many bizarre theories you hear the only possible way for refrigerant to leave an AC system; is through a leak! Refrigerant gone, system has a leak.
Warning: Never try to top off your system with a kit from the auto parts store. Without proper test equipment you can’t know how much refrigerant to add and adding too much can do serious damage. Grim Warning: Absolutely never add stop leak.
Although refrigerant loss is common and is one of the first things to check there are lots of others. Finding the actual problem requires a systematic diagnosis using an AC refrigerant identifier, pressure gauges and a written diagnostic procedure. Note: Because it’s rarely done, insist that your technician use a temperature and humidity compensation chart to adjust pressure readings or the diagnosis could be totally, expensively wrong. Another mistake is not using a refrigerant identifier which could save hours of diagnostic time. In five minutes or less the identifier lets the technician know if there is improper or contaminated refrigerant and even if there is air in the system. Today, a refrigerant identifier is a must have, must use tool.
If the compensated readings are correct and the system has the proper refrigerant the next step is to check the heater control valve or air-blend door. These parts control the temperature of the air coming into the car. Heater control valves control the flow of hot coolant to the heater and air-blend doors mix hot and cold air together to achieve the desired interior temperature. So although the AC is cooling properly a faulty heater valve or goofy air blend door reheats the cooled air and you get warm or hot air inside the car.
Unfortunately, air-blend door problems are common and often caused by pens, pencils, toys, food and other “stuff” you place on the dash. That “stuff” falls through the defroster openings right into the heating and air conditioning ducts where it jams the air blend door. Fixing your seemingly tiny blunder can be a very big deal often gobbling-up several hours and hundreds of dollars.
Air conditioning operates by picking up heat from inside the car and dumping it into air moving through a radiator-like unit mounted in front of the car’s radiator called a condenser. Because of its position and importance to AC performance have the condenser examined for airflow-restricting dirt and debris yearly and whenever there’s an AC problem. Over time leaves, bugs, mud, and everything from plastic bags to dried road oil and general crud builds up on the front of the condenser and between the condenser and radiator. Cleaning the condenser is often all it takes to restore proper AC cooling.
Finally don’t forget to check your cabin air filter. Dirty cabin filters restrict air flow into the cabin and significantly reduce cooling. These are just a few frequently overlooked AC problems that’ll bite ya.
Remember to legally fix car air conditioners technicians must have an EPA license and should be ASE certified so ask if the tech working on your car is licensed first. Be wary of “cheap jobs” which often create a mess that is very costly to fix.
© Copyright 06/02/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved
by Pat Goss
AVOIDING FLEAS
My Grandmother was always concerned about the character of the people I hung with. She used to say “remember young man if you sleep with dogs you wake up with fleas.” That sounded pretty silly at the time but through the years I’ve gained an understanding of what she really meant.
Although from another century that saying is right on target for what many of you are doing with your cars today. You look for the cheapest place you can find then bitch like crazy when things don’t work out. Yeah, I know money’s tight but paying a cheap price for something that doesn’t fix your problem is wasting not saving money. Especially after you pay for a second, or as one poor guy did a ninth failed attempt.
Fact is all shops get their technicians from the same employee pool and they all buy parts from competitive suppliers so how do the shops that claim such low prices do it? Actually they don’t because they really can’t. There is absolutely no reason for highly skilled and certified technicians without issues to work in a cheapest guy in town shop earning a fraction of the pay. Especially considering there are thousands of high paying technician openings that need to be filled. Also good techs are proud of their abilities and knowledge and don’t want the blemish of working in a low class, hard sell shop on their resume’. So maybe it’s through buying power. Not likely! High quality costs almost the same no matter how much you buy.
Yet these places advertise prices that are often half what dealerships and quality independent shops charge. Truth is they’re usually cheaper because they do what I and my peers refuse to do, buy cheap offshore parts, employ entry level techs and up-sell from the advertised price like crazy. By the time the deal is done it often costs a lot more than it would have for a quality job using quality parts performed by a high end tech.
Another old saying is you get what you pay for and that’s really true when getting your car fixed. Although high prices don’t guarantee high quality ridiculously low prices always guarantee compromise. That compromise could mean second-class parts or maybe second-class workmanship or both. Sure you want a good price but not by sacrificing safety or quality and not by exposing yourself to a lot of intimidating high pressure up-selling. So, what can you look for?
Look for a fair price instead of the absolute lowest price! You want to deal with a clean shop with no derelict cars or old parts sitting around that has a clean comfortable waiting area and clean restrooms. Always ask for a tour of the shop and if they say no leave. During your tour look for offensive pictures and calendars or anything else disrespectful to women, men, religions, etc. You also want a shop that has ASE Certified technicians and preferably a shop that is ASE Blue Seal Certified.
Next do some homework. Contact the local consumer agencies to see how the shop fares on complaints and remember all businesses have some complaints so you’re just looking for a disproportionate number of them. Also ask friends relatives and trusted acquaintances if they’ve heard anything good or bad about the shop.
Here’s a trade secret just a few dollars spent on your future with a subscription to Alldata www.alldata.com will allow you to look up bulletins. That way you don’t have to pay to solve a problem that has already been solved. Plus you can verify estimates using the Alldata parts and labor guide and learn the terms you’ll encounter at a shop. Alldata could save you a ton of money as your car ages. Invest a little time, invest a few dollars, use common sense and you’ll be more empowered and better able to cope with your auto repairs. Caveat emptor: always avoid fleas --- don’t sleep with dogs!
© Copyright 04/29/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
QUICK BUT DEADLY
I was shocked at a relatively late model low miles car in my shop recently with battery cables so badly corroded the metal ends were almost non-existent. Not surprisingly it had been towed because it wouldn’t start.
It’s shocking that so many drivers think they’re too busy or too important to take time for proper service. All they want is a ten minute oil change, but cars need more than oil changes. Cars have always needed lots of things checked and maintained at each service interval to keep them reliable and healthy. Not the least of which is battery maintenance because without a healthy battery and clean, electrically efficient battery cables you can kiss even basic reliability goodbye!
But the car in my bay had been regularly serviced in a quick oil change lane. It had also had all those exceedingly high profit services that get sold in speedy lanes. Unfortunately some of those services may be pure profit for the shop owner yet offer no real benefit to the driver. I’m not saying to avoid quick service but at least alternate between quick service and full service and understand what you are and are not getting!
As a rule the full service shop will check battery and cable cleanliness and recommend service before you’re stranded. Also full service usually includes inspecting safety items like steering, suspension, exhaust, lights, wipers, and a check for fluid leaks, etc. The full service shop will point out pending problems allowing you to fix them before they damage more expensive parts or leave you driving a deadly car. The big difference is full service shops check everything not just items on a speedy service menu. Because what a quick service shop can fix is limited so are the things they usually check.
The driver of the car in my bay had spent huge amounts of money on quick services which kept the engine well protected but everything around the engine was literally falling apart from neglect. It was over maintained and grossly under-maintained at the same time. Like his battery. The cables had been sprayed on the outside but they had not been removed for proper cleaning. Although it looked great the cables had literally dissolved from the inside out and the car needed new battery cables. The sad part is proper battery service would have cost $20.00 to $30.00 and that would have prevented the problems entirely. The result of the bogus quick service was towing $162.00, battery cables $224.00; labor $120.00, testing $42.00 for a total of $548.00. Every penny of that money would have been saved with proper maintenance.
Saving a few minutes on service may cost you hundreds later on and even worse, you usually don’t save money by using quick lanes. The cost of speedy service is usually the same and many times higher. All you save is a few minutes time and even that doesn’t always happen! If you compare what you get for what you pay you may find quick service costs more than double what full service costs because full service gives you so much more for the same or less money.
For longer vehicle life review your owner’s manual so you’ll know what’s needed for minimum preventive maintenance. Then make copies of the pages to present to the shop and ask if they can and will do the various services and checks. If they say no or some services aren’t needed go to a better shop.
For maximum vehicle life and lower repair costs move up to aftermarket maintenance which often extends vehicle life to a quarter million or more miles. For a free copy of my Goss’ Garage maintenance schedule and information on getting a free lifetime BG Products warranty go to www.goss-garage.com Remember quick may save a little time today but cost you both time and money later. Quick is good but complete, professional and proper is best.
© Copyright 04/13/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
Goss’ Garage
by Pat Goss
MAKING GAS & WATER MIX
All fuel tanks have water in them, but that water isn’t from the service station. Since the latter part of the dark ages it has been a commonly held myth that water only gets into cars from service stations. Although possible it definitely isn’t typical. When you get water from a service station the quantities are usually large causing the car to quit almost immediately and not restart until the tank is drained. Actually water in fuel tanks builds up naturally over time.
Unless you’re very strange I doubt you think about how this happens but every time you remove your fuel fill cap outside air enters the tank which always contains moisture. Higher humidity means more moisture in the air entering the tank. This is also true of the air the tank breathes-in with changes in temperature. Some of that humidity condenses and slowly builds up in the bottom of your tank.
You can’t see inside your fuel tank so out of sight usually means out of mind. That is, until something bad happens like clogged fuel injectors, a failed fuel pump or even a frozen fuel line on an icy-cold morning. All are common problems and except for frozen fuel lines, seldom associated with water in the tank. Fortunately, prevention is easy; use fuel system drier (often called dry gas or gas line anti freeze) which prevents excessive moisture build up. It’s readily available under a variety of brand names.
All automotive fuel system treatments for water control are made of either methyl or isopropyl alcohol. Although harder to find isopropyl is what you want so shop till you find isopropyl because the two products deal with water and gasoline very differently.
When you use a methyl alcohol based product it soaks up water and prevents freezing. The problem is although the water and alcohol mix that mixture won’t combine with the gas so it stays in the tank causing long-term damage. Things like early failure of fuel gauge senders and fuel pumps, tank de-plating and corrosion of in-tank components. As these parts corrode they shed tiny flecks of metal and plastic so small they pass right through the fuel filter. Once past the filter they can devastate other parts, like injectors. To actually protect fuel system parts the water and alcohol have to get out of the tank.
Like methyl alcohol products isopropyl alcohol dry gas combines with water but it also causes the water, alcohol and gasoline to blend together. Once mixed together the water and alcohol move harmlessly through the fuel system as a blend with the gasoline and are burned in the engine. Isopropyl prevents moisture buildup and eliminates fuel system damage.
But be aware that not all isopropyl products are created equal. I prefer BG Products Fuel System Drier because of its consistently high quality. For you cheapskates no, you can’t use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it’s already water saturated so it can’t absorb a single drop more water and therefore won’t help your car --- at all. Plus I’ve encountered generically named products that were almost certainly just repackaged rubbing alcohol sold at four or five times the price.
By using quality isopropyl based dry gas once every month, twelve months a year, the damage caused by water in your fuel tank will be avoided.
© Pat Goss 03/ 24/2010 all rights reserved
by Pat Goss
SAVE BY
Modern automatic transmissions had very humble beginnings back in 1904 with a clunky centrifugal unit from the Sturtevant brothers of Boston. Over the years automatic transmissions have evolved into reliable, economical and fun to drive units that work through a series of sensors and an onboard computer to mastermind their decisions. Pretty amazing and well beyond anything even imagined by most of us a few years ago. But although sophistication brings reliability it really requires your help. Help or face repair bills that were also unknown a few years ago. In 1970 the average price of a new car was $3900 today the price of a transmission can easily exceed that!
So with replacement cost so high and prevention so cheap transmission maintenance makes a lot of sense. Now is the time of year to protect your transmission; before those scorching-hot summer trips. Service used to be nothing more than dropping the transmission pan, replacing the filter and refilling it with fluid. But that was a long time ago; proper service has changed because that old-school service can actually decrease rather than increase transmission life. The old method didn’t clean the transmission and it only replaced about one third of the fluid.
That good ole process left the transmission as dirty as it was before the service and still filled with two thirds old, worn out fluid. Without a thorough cleaning the new more-detergent fluid softens dirt allowing it to circulate through the transmission under high pressure leading to wear. Yeah I know you’re thinking your filter will trap the dirt but it won’t because the particles are so small they pass right through a transmission filter plus many transmissions don’t have filters, they use screens instead.
Today a proper transmission service is flushing, which dramatically extends transmission life. Flushes are nothing like those old fashioned fluid services. Flushes begin by circulating special cleaning chemicals through the transmission to remove the yuck that has built up in the transmission as the fluid deteriorated from heat.
During this process the car is connected to a transmission flush machine and every drop of fluid that circulates back into the transmission first passes through a bank of highly efficient fluid filters. The filters trap all the bad stuff to keep it from reentering the transmission and causing wear. Once the cleaning is complete the machine installs new transmission fluid. Plus flushes replace every drop of fluid not just a small portion.
Ideally a flush should be done every two years or 24,000 miles because clean fluid in a clean transmission means longer life. Also contrary to what your dealer may tell you there is no such thing as transmission fluid that lasts forever. Nothing lasts forever, all fluids wear out and when the fluid wears out the transmission soon follows. Sealed transmissions don’t exist either, they can all be serviced.
Finally beware of shops that sell you a fluid exchange and call it a flush. A fluid exchange is quick and highly profitable for the shop but a waste of your money. Fluid exchanges can be done right in the service lane in about half an hour where a flush requires about an hour and a half.
I know the economy is tight but avoiding preventive maintenance is truly a false savings. Unfortunately metal doesn’t understand economics, can’t sympathize with your tight money and if not kept properly lubricated fails. Repair always costs a lot more than prevention. For what it’s worth I’m a firm believer in the BG Products flush system and chemicals so by selecting a BG Products shop www.bgfindashop.com you’re sure to get good value. I’ve tested and compared a lot of products and flush systems over the years and BG has always come out on top.
© Copyright 03/17/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
PDR
Thump! Oh crap, another one. Dents and dings come from stupid, inconsiderate drivers and lots of uncontrollable things like an unmanned shopping cart rolling across the parking lot right into your car. My personal favorite is the jackass who slams his door open against yours. Even worse if you comment these low-lifes may thump your car again “just for grins”! But dents and dings aren’t just from discourteous drivers they come from falling, flying, thrown, blown, run over objects that hit your car too. Whatever the cause, sooner or later, cars get dents.
Even being extremely careful won’t always help. I usually park so far away from the crowd I need GPS coordinates and a map for the trek to the store. Recently I parked in the perfect spot completely safe, not another car for at least twenty spaces in every direction. But when I returned I couldn’t open my door because some decrepit, broken-down, bone-yard-refugee clunker was parked within six inches of my door. I had to get in on the passenger side, climb over the console so I could move the car to look for damage. For once I was lucky, not a mark!
Lucky once but not lucky always, so when that inevitable door ding arrives you should consider Paintless Dent Repair or PDR. PDR is a cheaper way to fix small damage that hasn’t broken the surface of the paint. Without PDR, even fixing tiny dents is expensive.
In a traditional repair any damage requires straightening, filling, sanding, painting, and a substantial bill. With Paintless Dent Repair there is no filling, sanding, or painting so the cost is lower and the problems associated with matching paint color and texture are gone.
Furthermore PDR can be done nearly anywhere, even at your home or office. However, all is not perfect with this system; PDR only works on dents where the metal isn’t stretched or creased and where the paint isn’t scratched. Dents from actual accidents are typically not repairable with PDR.
PDR relies on the metal’s memory, or the fact that metal wants to return to its original shape. This works as long as the metal hasn’t been stretched which gives it a new shape and a new memory. Done properly a PDR repair will be nearly invisible. But before buying PDR make sure it’s a quality shop, get an estimate and disclosure of possible negatives.
Never deal with anyone who offers an on-the-spot repair for an absurdly low price. They’re crooks who collect some of the money before starting. They sand your car’s paint to “rough it up so filler will stick” then apply a coat of body filler. Next, the scammer says he has to wait for the filler to harden so he’s going for a soda. He walks off with a fist full of your money never to be seen again. But not only have you thrown away your money he’s made the damage way more costly to fix properly
Also if you watch late night television you’ll likely see an infomercial promoting tools to do your own PDR. They make it sound so easy you may be tempted but save your money, PDR requires enormous skill and finesse. No matter how many tools you buy, without training and practice if you try a do-it-yourself PDR job I guarantee you’ll screw it up. PDR is not do-it-yourself and it’s not for every dent but it does warrant looking into for those pesky little dings.
© Copyright 03/09/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
SILENT & DEADLY
Sport Utility Vehicles or more typically SUVs or Sport Utes and pickups are much like brains, although often not used daily most folks have one. Some SUVs are practical and efficient while others are highly impractical and inefficient but one thing they all have in common is the way they’re used begs for special maintenance.
Designed to allow their drivers to travel under conditions or in places that would be difficult or impossible for a regular car, SUVs and trucks are uniquely different. They’re particularly capable in snow and sand because most SUVs and a significant percentage of “personal-use” pickups are equipped with four-wheel drive. That’s great but both snow and sand lead to negative long-term consequences.
Operating a vehicle during snowstorms leaves a vicious buildup of salt and de-icing chemicals on its underbody. Left in place, this leads to body corrosion, weakened brake and fuel lines, parking brake cables, brake rotors and numerous other rusted parts later in the vehicle’s life. So, as soon as it’s practical, thoroughly clean the outside and more important, the underside of your dirty, salted vehicle.
But perhaps you never drive your 4X4 in the snow, you only use it in the summer and it stays at the beach house. You only go off road for a little beach cruising or surf fishing so there are no salt problems! Aw come on, actually vehicles that stay near salt water, are used on the beach or off road are usually more prone to rust than those from deep in the snow belt.
Salt picked up around the ocean attacks areas of your vehicle never touched by road salt. That’s because there’s a fine mist of salty moisture in the air around the ocean. This salty mist finds its way all over, under, and through your vehicle. It seeps into every crack and crevice throughout the entire car; it finds its way into everything! So cleaning after beach excursions or being parked at the beach is also recommended to help slow the ravages of corrosion. Same with off road mud which holds moisture causing corrosion.
But how do you clean the underside of a vehicle? The easiest way is a professional car wash where they offer high-pressure underbody cleaning as part of their service. Second is a pressure washer but more practical for most drivers is their rotating lawn sprinkler. Position the sprinkler under the front of the vehicle and turn the water on full blast. Allow the sprinkler to thoroughly rinse the underside of the front of the vehicle for about an hour then move it to the middle and finally the rear. Also rinse the engine bay to remove salt residue that devastates aluminum parts and electrical components.
Because doors are not sealed they must also be flushed with fresh water. Doors are designed to allow water to enter around the base of the window, flow through the door, and out through drains in the bottom. If water can get into doors so can salty water from roads or the beach. Using a garden hose aimed at the bottom of the window spend several minutes flushing water through each door to help wash away salt residue. Most rust on doors and body panels happens from the inside out so flushing these areas with fresh water dramatically decreases the possibility of body rust.
SUVs need some special lubrication as well. Door hinges and latches, and hood hinges and latches should be lubricated with white lithium grease. Also don’t neglect applying a liberal coating of marine corrosion inhibitor to brake lines, fuel lines, parking-brake cables and adjusters, and other rust-prone parts under the vehicle. Out of sight is where most salt related damage occurs. Of course all the same rules apply to your car that has been used at the beach or in the snow.
Clean, salt free and well lubricated helps preserve the utility of your Sport Utility.
© Copyright 02/22/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
SPINNING is DEADLY
Although probably not biblical this winter has been historic. Unfortunately snow measured in feet means many of you have accidentally damaged your cars. Although it’s a natural reaction wheel spinning in an attempt to keep moving can do a lot of damage.
Getting stuck happens but how you get unstuck could be costly. I’m sure you’ve read that rocking your car by shifting rapidly from drive to reverse is a good way to get yourself unstuck. True but there’s a deadly mechanical downside to it that no one ever mentions; transmission damage!
Automatic transmissions fluid is extremely sensitive to heat and is damaged or destroyed when it gets too hot. The issue relates to a phenomenon called oxidation that over time can really bite you financially. Oxidation occurs when oxygen is forced into union with the lubricants in the fluid. Slow oxidation over time is normal and is one of the main reasons transmissions must be flushed. But oxidation rates can be greatly accelerated by several different factors most notably high fluid temperature.
For every eighteen degrees of fluid temperature increase the fluid oxidation rate doubles and the life of your transmission fluid is cut in half. In other words the higher the temperature of your transmission fluid the shorter its life. Of course this doesn’t mean a couple minutes of severely high temperature will immediately kill your fluid but the effect is cumulative so even one instance sets the process in motion.
Getting stuck or spinning your wheels causes high transmission fluid temperature. That’s because a car that’s stuck is standing still so there is no air moving around the transmission or through the radiator to keep the fluid cool. Although the cooling fan may be running it isn’t designed to control the high heat loads produced by wheel spin so the fluid keeps getting hotter and hotter. The longer you rock the car, the longer you spin the wheels or the faster you spin the wheels the hotter the transmission fluid becomes.
Long periods of wheel spinning will cause the fluid to become so hot it will warp parts inside the transmission killing it. But much more common is fluid oxidation which if left untreated also will ultimately cause transmission failure. How quickly will the transmission fail? That depends on several factors. The damage could be minor and hurt nothing for years or it could be severe and kill the transmission in minutes.
When transmission fluid consistently operates at 180 degrees or less it could last up to 60,000 miles. But that isn’t going to happen. Hot days in heavy traffic, towing, heavy loads, hard acceleration and numerous other routine driving situations will push the temperature above the magical and safe 180 degree mark. That’s why we recommend a BG transmission flush every 30,000 miles or sooner.
If your wheel spinning exercise causes the fluid to hit 220 degrees its life could be reduced to 15,000 miles. Sadly wheel spinning usually pushes fluid temp up to 240 degrees or higher where fluid life drops to a mere 7,500 miles. And if rocking or spinning heats the fluid to 260 degrees its life is a startlingly low 3.750 miles. But then there are the cowboys and idiots who go Postal with wildly spinning tires literally screaming for mercy. Their fluid could easily climb to a blistering 300 plus degrees. Unfortunately for them the life of their transmissions might be measured in minutes.
There may be more snow coming so if you get stuck take it easy; allow the transmission to cool for at least five minutes after thirty seconds of rocking or spinning. After an incident, always have the fluid condition checked and preferably flushed or best of all call road service. Pat Goss
© Copyright 02/11/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
ABS CAN’T
Gene, a long-time viewer of Goss’ Garage recently asked for help in solving what he thought was a serious brake problem. During the last big snow storm he was trying to stop near the bottom of a hilly, icy, snow packed street when his ABS brake system didn’t work --- at all! As a result his right front wheel kissed the curb causing several hundred dollars in suspension damage. Since then he has been to three shops trying to find the cause of his one-time lack of ABS but no one has been able to find a problem.
ABS brakes are a major safety feature that allows a car to be steered around obstacles during panic stops. They work by preventing wheels from locking which leads to a loss of control. ABS is great but like most safety features there are things it can’t do.
Warning: to remain active ABS systems require preventive maintenance and if you don’t perform that maintenance the damage will be pricey. Also most drivers, Gene included, haven’t a clue what ABS is, how it works, and what it can and can not do.
Happily, ABS preventive maintenance is neither difficult nor expensive. Maintenance is just flushing the old moisture-contaminated brake fluid out of the system every two years. Brake fluid attracts and absorbs moisture from humidity in the air which can reach a critical concentration in two years. Moisture-contaminated brake fluid reduces brake efficiency and shortens brake-parts life. And no matter what your dealer tells you there is no such thing as a sealed brake system that can’t absorb moisture.
Equally important to benefiting from ABS is knowledge. Most drivers receive no meaningful explanation or training about how to use and what to expect from their computerized ABS brake system. Some owner’s manuals make a feeble attempt to describe the feeling and sounds the system produces but words can’t accurately convey the ABS experience to first timers.
To be prepared and react properly during an ABS-active stop, you should rehearse. Find a safe location such as a deserted parking lot or unobstructed, wide, dirt or gravel area. Wherever you go, safety is your number one concern so it’s recommended you take someone with ABS experience along. Practice by applying the brakes very hard at low speed. When the wheels attempt to lock you’ll probably feel and hear an alarming, but normal, thumping or buzzing. This causes many accidents.
How? The noise and vibration scares drivers into releasing the brake pedal, which releases the brakes, which causes them to hit the very thing they’re trying to miss. So ABS benefits require you to be familiar with its sound and feel. Also know the rules of ABS: in most panic stops (see the exception below) Stomp on the brake Stay on the brake and Steer around the object. Familiarity means you’ll react properly when you’re faced with the real thing.
My ten-cent ABS explanation: A sensor at each wheel monitors the speed of that wheel. If during braking one of the sensors determines the wheel it monitors is locked up (turning more slowly than the rest or not turning at all) it signals the ABS computer. The ABS computer then releases the brake on that wheel allowing the tire to rotate and regain traction which allows the driver to maintain control.
Finally, two things ABS can’t do! ABS does not make a car stop faster it only provides steering control during braking. The second ABS foible is almost universally unknown to drivers. If all four wheels are on an extremely slippery surface such as ice or packed snow it’s possible for all four wheels to lock up and quit turning. With no wheels rotating the ABS thinks the car is standing still and doesn’t activate and you lose control. Under such conditions you may find it necessary to revert to pump your brakes to maintain control of your car. Actually, Gene’s car didn’t have an ABS problem. Gene’s problem was his lack of ABS knowledge!
© Copyright 02/09/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
A BIZARRE CONCEPT
Since the first car became stuck in snow drivers have been trying to get better winter traction. For several decades drivers have relied on snow tires for more traction but now there’s a new and better tire for winter use.
Traditional snow tires use an open, deep, aggressive tread design that digs into deep snow for better traction. But the very design that makes snow tires dig into deep snow can reduce traction on ice and in light snow. That’s because the open tread pattern that digs into deep snow so well decreases the total amount of rubber that contacts the road surface. Simply stated, old fashioned snow tires dig in a lot better than they hold on.
Also the tread rubber of those old style snow tires reacts unfavorably to cold temperatures. Now that’s an absurdity, tires for winter use that react badly to cold. But as outside temperature drops the rubber becomes harder and less pliable. Once the temperature falls below about forty degrees conventional tires begin to harden and loose some of their ability to grip. Less pliable rubber means less ability to grip in light snow, on ice and even on dry pavement. That’s why on cold days stopping distances may be longer than on a hot day even on bare pavement. This same problem plagues the all season tires that are now standard equipment on most cars.
Now we have ‘winter’ tires which are a marvel of technology and design that work well under a wide range of conditions. To address the cold problem tire manufacturers have developed rubber compounds that are substantially less affected by temperature drop. These new compounds combined with a more closed tread design give winter tires the ability to grip better than snow tires or all season tires at lower temperatures. New style winter tires stop and grip better on dry, wet or icy surfaces plus still work well in light to moderate snow. Winter tires both dig in and hold on.
But all tires are a series of tradeoffs so the added cold traction and safety comes at the cost of faster wear during warmer weather, so you’re still faced with seasonal tire changes. Winter tires in the cold months, all season tires in the warm months.
Then there’s the unending question of two or four winter tires? Apparently many of you really crave danger because your only concern is being able to move forward with minimal wheel spin and only buy two winter tires. This is a seriously bad choice because the better you can move the more important it is to be able to stop. It’s a bizarre concept, you try to make your car go like a tractor yet do nothing to prevent it from stopping like a toboggan.
Common sense says if your car can’t move you can’t run into anything but make it go really well without also making it stop and handle really well and sooner or later you will crash. Winter driving isn’t nearly as much about going as it is maintaining overall control and being able to stop. By installing four winter tires you will gain all the benefits of low temperature modern tread design which means better acceleration combined with better steering and stopping in all weather conditions.
Your best value comes from a winter tire package which includes four winter tires and four winter wheels. If you’ve never heard of winter wheels they’re just old fashioned steel wheels. Although disgusting looking, cheap steel wheels allow your expensive alloy wheels to safely sit-out the winter in the garage far from harsh winter road chemicals.
But even the best tires won’t get the job done safely if they aren’t properly inflated. Too much or too little pressure can seriously compromise traction. Every ten degrees drop in outside temperature decreases tire pressure by one to two pounds so tire pressure must be checked and adjusted at least once every month, year round. Pat Goss
© Copyright 01/21/10 Pat Goss all rights reserved.
by Pat Goss
SNOOZY FROSTY MISTAKES
There’s a seemingly endless list of tiny mistakes that can damage your car. Seems everything, even things as innocuous as your lowly ice scraper can do damage if not used properly. No joke here!
Ice scrapers are made of plastic so you would naturally assume that using one on glass would be safe. After all, glass is harder than plastic so plastic can’t damage glass; or can it? Such a simple tool, such a simple job, such simple rules yet drivers routinely manage to damage their cars with ice scrapers. The rules: 1. Keep the scraper flat against the glass 2. Never use a scraper’s corner 3. Never use a scraper on a mirror or paint.
It’s a cold morning, the covers feel wonderful, and you fall victim to alarm-ignore. You’re so cozy you forget one of winter’s basic edicts, which plainly states: Sleep in and your car is guaranteed to be a giant ice cube. Out the door, gotta hurry, can’t be late but this %#&%@$ scraper won’t even scratch the damn ice. Hey, maybe if I turn it on its edge and use the sharp corner I can break up the ice. Yea, it works!
Wow I just found a great way to break up thick ice on a windshield. Clever! But as you drive and the windshield defrosts you notice what look like crayon marks on the glass. Wonder what that’s about? Oh well I’ll get it later. But later the marks don’t wipe off. Window cleaner, glass polish, nothing works, the marks are actually scratches in the glass from the sharp corners of your “plastic” ice scraper. Oops, not so clever was it?
You now know what countless others have discovered; plastic can damage glass! Next you’ll learn that getting rid of the distracting scratches is tough. The cheapest fix is to have a glass shop buff the windshield but buffing doesn’t always work which means a new windshield. Whether it takes buffing or replacing, the fix is expensive. But you went whole hog and cleaned your outside mirrors using your great new process. So now you also know the glass in a mirror is even easier to damage than windshield glass and you will soon learn they’re ridiculously expensive too.
Most icing problems can be avoided with windshield covers or spray de-icer Windshield covers are used to cover the windshield and prevent snow and ice from sticking to the glass. They wrap around the front pillars and are held in place by shutting them into the doors. In the morning open the doors and remove the cover along with the snow and ice. Or you melt the ice by spraying it with de-icer.
But you’re one of those drivers who does everything wrong and even the doors are frozen shut. Frozen doors are easily prevented by treating the rubber seals around the doors with silicone. Silicone lubricates the rubber and is so slippery it keeps ice from freezing the rubber to the car’s body. But you still can’t open the door because the lock is frozen. If you can’t unlock the door you can’t open the door. For longer life and freeze protection all locks should be lubricated with graphite lock lube twice a year.
Another gotcha in the, “I’m late, gotta get going,” saga is clearing ice from the side windows. Although it’s a time honored tradition do not dump hot water over the doors and windows! On an ancient car perhaps, but on modern cars, never!
Today car doors are packed full of electronics that could be damaged if soaked with hot water on an icy-cold day. Doors now have electronic interior-light switches, one-touch window relays and modules, automatic door lock controllers, and more. Dousing that door full of sophisticated electronic gizmos with hot water could lead to an expensive shop visit. Even if you understand that these parts routinely get wet when it rains don’t think hot water is okay because it never rains hot water.
None of this allows an extra snooze cycle but they’re all cheap, simple ways to reduce cold-morning hassles and scary-expensive repair bills.
© Copyright 12/21/09 Pat Goss all rights reserved.